Friday, January 31, 2020

Colette Anise Jacket

Making a wool peacoat has been on my ultimate sewing list for quite some time. I've had this black wool coating from for at least 4 years, probably more. I took a long time to settle on  just the right style of peacoat to fit my taste. The Anise jacket was not first on my list. I actually found a style I really wanted on However, when I was ready to download the pattern and get started, the 2019 Burda Style Cluster-eff occurred. At that time, Burda Style transitioned to a new web site manager and customers were not able to download nor purchase patterns for weeks. The Anise was a close second to my first choice and was available for "free" with my Seamwork subscription. 

Aside from the wool coating, I used a muslin interlining, and a polyester charmeuse from my stash. I went on a hunt for the perfect buttons and found these interesting silver buttons on Mood Fabrics. I used a horsehair interfacing. 

I cut a size 14. My measurements would put me in a 16, but I find that Seamwork has quite a bit of ease in their patterns. Although I didn't make a muslin, I fit as I went and this worked out well. 

As for the construction, it is time consuming, but not difficult. Colette includes detailed instructions with their patterns, and the Anise has a sew-along, with even more detail (just Google it). I did bound buttonholes, really not as difficult as they look! 

I padstitched the undercollar, which ensures your collar has a nice turn and lays correctly. I used the serpentine stitch on my machine to create the underlining, a technique I borrowed from Kenneth King. 

Instead of installing the lining as directed, I used the bag method. The Colette instructions would cause much more hand stitching and a not so clean inside, IMO. I followed the Threads Magazine tutorial to bag my lining. It is easy and creates a cleaner inside. Also, much less hand sewing!

The jacket is gorgeous! I am loving the details I spent extra time on, such as the bound buttonholes. This jacket is timeless and I know I will enjoy it for years. 

By the way, I finished this just in time for 70 degree weather in Phoenix! I might be great at sewing by will never be great at sewing the right season!


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